Since I like to take things apart and refuse to pay someone $200 to replace a presumably $10 part, I dug in. Took a while to figure out how to get the top off. Inserting a putty knife on each side, then pushing gently will release the clips. I pulled the top, the front and the drum which made easy access to the gas valve, etc. Figuring everything was just dirty, I blew everything off with a compressor and vacuumed the internals (which was good to do anyhow). Put everything back together and still the same problem, no flame.
Did some reading online and learned there is a manually resettable thermostat on the bottom of the blower tube. There are actually two thermostats, but the one on top is not resettable. Going in through the access port on the side would have been ideal, but I could not easily get to it. In any case, the thermostat button was out which means it needed to be pushed back in to reset. Pushed that guy in, put everything back together and it fired up (happy wife)! However, the service manual states to replace the switch if it has tripped. Fortunately, my local MCM electronics store caries the part which is $10 as I assumed.
Here is a picture of the internals and the problematic switch which will get replaced this evening:
By the way, the reset button is between the two wire terminals going in to the switch. Just put your finger there and you will feel it sticking up. Give it a push. If it clicks in, it was tripped and needed to be reset.
Update (4/6/2013):
The day finally came where the switch had to be replaced. The dryer was no longer firing and the reset pin was not out. Put the new switch in and the dryer would now fire. When you do the replacement, be sure to have a stubby phillips screwdriver like the one below. Also, when you test the dryer, be sure to put the front cover back on. For some reason, the flame would not stay lit without it.
I have the same dryer. Now I know what to do if it pops. Thanks
ReplyDeleteThis is excellent advice. You just saved me $2000. Was looking at new washer and dryer. Thank you so much!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the writeup this worked perfectly!
ReplyDeleteHello. Need help/advice. I bought LG dryer 8 years ago and I did not touch anything since that time. Everything was OK. 2 weeks ago dryer stopped working- "Check filter" blinking and no heating. I cleaned my duct every 2 months and cleaned filter after every load. I did unplugged machine several times. Finally I called service company(LG gave me 3 different company). When a guy came in he open dryer and reset dryer and it started working. But he said since that dryer is high efficiency I have to get solid(rigid) vent instead of semi-rigid. And that the problem for my machine and stopped working. I said I will change it in several days. In two days dryer stopped working. I did not have time to call him I was out of town. When I came back I call him and told him I have the same problem. He asked me about vent system. I said I did not have time and he said that it is the problem. I spoke with some guys at Home Depot and they said it's not a problem. For 8 years system worked OK and suddenly broken?! I open dryer as you suggested and try to reset it. Nope, I could not do it. I could not push it. It means it broken?? I paid this guy for service but had nothing. Need advice. What should I do? Will be appreciate. Mike
ReplyDeleteHey Mike. I have not had the check filter light issue like you mentioned. However, I could see where this may be related to venting and trigger the alarm. If you have had the dryer for 8 years and keep the vent clear, I cannot imagine this issue coming up now as you mentioned. In my case, the dryer would start, but not heat (our unit is gas). Also, we have a combination of both rigid and flexible hose and have no issues. I only clean the vent piping once per year in the fall. You may want to try shortening the pipe temporarily or removing it all together to see if the unit will start. If so, then you know it has something to do with the vent. Obviously, DO NOT run the dryer this way for very long.
DeleteIf the button was not pushed out, the sensor could be bad and simply not triggering the fuse. In this situation, the dryer should fire, but turn off shortly thereafter. Does yours fire?
It could be a bad sensor which detects a dirty filter. Really hard to say. If you are mechanical, start eliminating things one by one until you get it. Good luck and let me know what you find.
Hi Mike. Thank you for reply. I will replaced piece by piece. I am not mechanical, but I fast learner(at least I hope). I exchange vent yesterday to rigid one. It shorter and straight. Will see. Thank you again for your time and consideration. Mike
ReplyDeleteCan you explain to me what this switch is exactly? Is it the entire thermostat...can you possibly provide a picture?
ReplyDeleteHigh Limit Thermostat 6931EL3003C.. is this the part that would be needed to fix the issue?
ReplyDeleteThis is the part you would need:
Deletehttp://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/6931EL3003C
MCM has the part title as "Thermostat ASY". There is a picture in the link above. Good luck!
Mike, please reassure once more. I have pushed the reset button probably 60 times over the last several months. Sometimes when I reach in there, it is already pushed in and the clothes did not dry. Did you replace anything else except the little push button part as shown in the link? I have one on order.
ReplyDeleteHi Fhig. If the button on the switch is already pushed and clothes are not drying, then the switch is either not tripping or really in bad shape. Sounds like you have had to reset it numerous times which indicates something else is going on or the switch is dying. The only item I replaced was that switch, however there are several other sensors in there which could be an issue. Either way, replacing the switch is a good start. Hopefully, that is your issue, otherwise you will have to start troubleshooting and replacing other various switches on the flame tube. Good luck!
DeleteThank you! If you are ever in Minneapolis, look me up. I owe you a beer!
ReplyDeleteThank you for the details. We have had ours for 9 years. Does the switch trip because it gets too hot? We haven't had a problem in over a year. It tripped the other day - we did the major spring clean on it! Now it trips every other load? Do you think it's the switch or something like the sensor?
ReplyDeleteThanks,Brandy
Brandy - I believe the switch begins to fail simply due to age and heat. Ours was the same way. It tripped one day, I did a reset, then it was several months if not a year before it started more frequently. I have not had any issues with the other sensors so I cannot be certain what your root cause is. Although, it sounds to me like the resettable thermostat is simply going bad if pushing the reset button gets you going again. The replacement sensor is only 10 bucks and if yours is tripping, that is a low cost easy place to start.
DeleteThanks,
Mike
Hi Mike!
ReplyDeleteAfter reading all of these comments, it looks like I have the same issue....my LG model DLG2532W is about 13 years old, haven't had a single issue until a couple of days ago. Woke up to wet clothes in the dryer. I stuck my hand into the little trap door on the bottom right hand side, tried to push/pull/reset the button but it didn't really move at all, so I am assuming it wasn't tripped, just bad? If I order this new piece, do I need to take the front and sides off to replace it? I know that is a dumb question because there is no way I can fit the part, my hand and the stubby screw driver in there.......
Hi Mike!
ReplyDeleteI have model DLG2532W, which is about 13 years old. I have never had an issue with it until a couple of days ago when I woke up to wet clothes in the dryer. After doing some reading on your site, I thought I found the resettable thermostat button. I stuck my hand in there, pushed/pulled/reset, it didn't do move so I am assuming it wasn't tripped and is a bad sensor. If I order the replacement part, (here comes the dumb question) do I need to take the sides/front off the dryer to replace it? I went through a softball sized hole to get to the sensor- I am guessing my hand, the part and the screwdriver along with a flashlight won't fit in that small opening. (i'm trying not to take apart the whole dryer!)
Hi Deana! Glad you found this information useful. The sensor with the reset button would be on the far side of the fire tube when going in through the access portal. Sounds like you found it though. When I replaced my switch, I went in through the front. I would imagine it would be very tight and tedious trying to manage through the portal. Taking the front off is not too difficult. Simply pop the top using a putty knife, then remove the screws in and around the dryer door. There may be two screws on top as well, cannot recall. I believe there is a wire connected to the door which needs to be removed. Make sure to squeeze the wire connector and it should slide off. That should be it in regards to removing the front and should give you more access.
DeleteI hope in your case the thermostat is the issue. Generally the thermostat will start needing a reset first before they go bad. However, there is certainly a chance it simply fails. Either way, 10$ is not a lot to spend to give it a try. There is also a non-resettable thermostat closest to the fire tube.
Good luck and let me know how things work out!
Something else to note. If the sensors in and around the tube have a lot of dust on them, try cleaning them off or blowing them off if you have a can of compressed air (or even better, an air compressor). Using a shop vac with a long tube can get those hard to reach areas. I believe this can cause the dryer to think things are not running properly and stop operation. Might as well clean things out while you have it open :-) Oh, and check the vent path as well. If the vent path from the lint screen to the outside is clogged, the dryer can overheat and stop. I clean my vent from beginning to end once a year!
DeleteThank you for the reply! I did clean out the inside as well as I could with the vacuum, the vent elbow was a little stuffed, cleaned that out, the venting to the outside was totally clear- I do check that vent path often, however, when I looked inside the dryer vent (I mean inside inside) that was pretty stuffed as well, got that cleaned out!!!! I vacuumed as well as I could through that hole but once I open her up I will do a good blow out- I am a hairstylist and my studio is attached to my house so I am sure a lot of hair and lint has made it's way through this dryer over the years. I'm guessing it is just plain old worn out!! Can't wait to get my part and try to fix it- yes, $10 is an easy fix if that's it! I really appreciate your help!!!
DeleteFollowing up on your progress. Curious if the clean-out had any impact on the dryer performance and issue. Keeping that path clear is really important. Again, I make it a chore once a year to do this. Keep me updated. Really curious if the part replacement fixes your issue :-)
Delete